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Abd ar-Rahman III, Alicante, Alicante Wine, America, American Army, Arabs, Badalona, Barcelona, Blanes, Cadiz, Coll de Panissars, France, Gerona, Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus, John Bessac, Jonquera, Madrid, Mataro, Mediterranean, Minstrel, Perpignon, Philadelphia, Pompey the Great, Pryrenees, Roman Roads, Romans, Spain, Tortosa, Toulouse, Via Augusta, Via Domitia, Vidreres
John had been sitting in the city of Toulouse, France, knowing that he had to make a decision about where to settle. But Madrid? Why Madrid? Cadiz had no calling for him since his brother Ruffus died. But why did John choose Madrid? It had to be his adventuresome spirit. Young men tend to think romantically about far places as well as beautiful women. So Madrid it would be.
John’s first leg would be from Toulouse to Perpignon. He would still be in France; however, he would be on the cusp of the Pyrenees Mountains. Perpignon would allow him to gather whatever information he may need to help him cross the mountains.
It was an eighty mile trek from Toulouse to Perpignon. Being excited about his next great adventure he made the trip in three days. John had overestimated his endurance. He required rest. He found some solitude on the banks of the river. There was thick brush near the bridge that would shield him from the sun and the prying eyes of the church. That is where he spent the fourth day. Many others were also there resting their tired feet and doing their best to get out of the November sun. The nights were cold but by nine in the morning the heat was well on its way.
It was there that he met a minstrel of sorts. They agreed to become traveling companions while they crossed the Pyrenees. A plan was made between them. They would enter Spain at Jonquera. The die was cast and they set their course forward.
Their path through the Pyrenees was only six miles from the Mediterranean Sea. John could smell the mountain shrubs and the salt air simultaneously. He had never experienced an aroma like this before. His senses were aroused and his romantic thoughts of wanderlust almost undid him. He considered staying there. His new companion, the minstrel, convinced him that they needed to keep moving.
There were no inns across the mountains and a person needed to be “established” in order to set roots in the villages. They met many local people along their way through the Pyrenees. It was not that the people were terse or rude. In fact they went out of their way to offer the two travelers shelter. The mountain people shared their black bread and onions with them.
After a twenty mile trek they finally reached Jonquera.
John Bessac’s romanticism once again took control as he viewed the castle in the mountains. It rested above Jonquera with a commanding presence. A Roman road, the Via Augusta , which ran from Cádiz to the Pyrénées , also captured John Bessac’s imagination. There, at Jonquera, it joined the Via Domitia at the Coll de Panissars. The people informed John that this was an alter built by Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus; Pompey the Great. John Bessac was carried away with the history of La Jonquera.
Once John came to his senses he realized that it was a long eighty miles to Barcelona and another three hundred miles to his goal of Madrid. The next day he and his companion were once more on the pathway to their final destination.
Some of the trip was through the countryside of Gerona and Vidreres which reminded him of his home country. The trip was, at times, more enjoyable once he reached Blanes, Mataro and then Badalona. Along that route he could see the Mediterranean and it took his mind off of his feet.
The eighty mile walk from Jonquera along the coast to Barcelona was completed in four days.
John’s minstrel friend decided to stay in Barcelona. There were many people there and several venues in which he could ply his craft. John travelled alone for the remaining one hundred miles to Tortosa.
Another castle and more romantic notions held John’s attention as he spoke to the people of Tortosa.
John heard stories of Roman conquest and the start of this castle. The Arabs under the second caliphate of Abd ar-Rahman III added to it. John was mesmerized by the view of the castle above the Ebro River.
John still had another two hundred miles after leaving Tortosa. The trip gave him plenty of time to think. He had thoughts about eventually getting to Philadelphia to become an agent for a business. His brothers had recently become involved with establishing contacts in America.
Or possibly, if that did not work out, he would join the American army. John carefully weighed several different plans. His trip was not all planning. He had plenty of time to enjoy himself.
Once he slept in a cottage and another time in the open air under a wide spread chestnut tree.
He remembered one evening staying with a priest and three lay brothers. That evening he enjoyed roasted chestnuts followed up with a few servings of Alicant wine.
Most of the trip was on foot.
Once in a while, rain – – – sun – – – or fog, he would hitch a ride on a rickety mule-hauled cart.
He never knew if he would be sitting next to a keg of olive oil – – – or at other times sacks of figs. There were a few times when a cart was loaded with honey or bee’s wax. Then he would have to keep swatting at bees that were drawn to the load.
John arrived in Madrid without a coin in his pocket.
Great again, but please Toulouse is in South West France… not Spain…
OH-OH, I know that but must have made an error while writing. Thanks for catching that. I will correct it as soon as I find the area where I made the mistake. THANK YOU VERY MUCH MARKETA! Wally
Thanks…really like this historical account…
I have corrected it. Thanks again. Boy, that was embarrasing. As they say on television “AWKWARD!” Wally PS: Thanks for liking it even with such a boo-boo.
Great post!!! Interesting how different traveling was back then. Makes me appreciate the quickness and endurance of a car and plane. But then again, I also miss out on little things like visiting villages along the way. 😉 Thanks!
The hardships just to get from one place to another were unbelievable. A person had to really take care of his/her feet back in those days.
Thanks for reading my blogs.
Great writing! i have a friend who wrote a story of traveling though Ireland with her hubby. Kerry Dwyer, a wonderful author. I’m gonna go grab her and send her here. I think you two could have a nice chat. Paulette ps thanks for visiting my site.
Why thank you for such a nice complement. I am glad you like this story. If you started at the begining I am sure that you know it is a true story (with some embellishments). Thank you so much for dropping by and reading. That will make my day. I noticed that you followed my Adirondack Images blog also. Thank you. Wally
I meant to tell you how much I enjoyed the story of your experience with the Veteran who had given up on his life. Isn’t it amazing what a touch can do? But it was even more important in your case; where the touch was coming from and where it was recieved. Thank you so much for sharing that experience. Wally
Very kind of you to bring this up. I tell you, Wally, that whole experience felt like I was a witness, a grateful participant but none of it of my making. Some of the most cherished experiences in my life seem to be without author (no play on words intended) in which I’m amazed they are even happening. I’ve been really blessed that I’ve been put in so many situations in life where things like this happen, but then one would expect that with emergency room work, dog rescue, etc. So nice chatting with you here.
Paulette, I look forward to more exchanges in the future. Wally
Wally, my friend, you have a fan in me.
Thank you very much. There is a lot of reading in my four blogs (although you may not like my opinionated and sometimes silly blog “This, that and the Other Thing.”
I tell you about ‘a lot of reading’ because I am going to take a break after the holidays. I have so many books waiting for me and I find they give me inspiration to write – – – I hope. I have a lot of Calvino, Borges and Butkowski to read. I will post a note so that people would not think I died – – – just taking a breather. Take care and thanks again for reading my blogs. Wally
Silly is the best. My dad was English, had silly Brit humor, I grew up with that. Love it. Enjoy your respite and reading. 🙂
Hello Wally. Paulette did as she promised and grabbed me to come over here. I have taken the time to read all the past posts for this story. It is an incredible story and well written. What an amazing and full life he had. I had not heard of John before reading this but found some other information on the internet also. Fascinating character.
Thank you.
Thank you for stopping by Kerry. Yes, he was a fascinating character. I was so lucky to stumble upon him. After looking through all of the data on him I felt like he was an old friend. If I can get back out in the field sometime in the future I will scour the Chenango River bank to see if I can find that lost gravestone that is mentioned from time to time.
Once again, thank you for stopping by and reading about John Bessac. And thank you for the complement on my writing.
I hope you return to read other stories in my four blogs.
You may find http://adirondackimages.wordpress.com/ interesting (110 shorts reads/photos/wood cuts about the Adirondack Mountains of the 1800’s)
Wally
A wonderful read, Wally… I especially liked your reference to ‘young men’ and their romanticism… Reality certainly is a far cry…!
Carolyn, Thanks for your comments and continuing to read my posts. I hope all has been well with you while I have been “missing in action.” Wally
Yes, thank you, Wally.
I have wondered what had happened to you…
Good to see that all is well…
I just needed a break to catch up on some reading and writing.
Well, it’s good to see you back…
Thank you. It is good to be back among friends.
🙂
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Thanks for visiting.
You really capture the magic and excitement of traveling to what were then truly unknown places. Thank you!
Why thank you for such a nice comment. And thank you so much for reading my posts. I hope you enjoyed all of the posts as much as you liked this one.
I don’t know much about European history, but your accounts make for compelling reading. Thanks. It is informative.
Ankur, Thank you for your kind comments. I am glad you enjoy reading them. For some reason this post about “Crossing the Pyrenees” seems to be a favorite of many people. I get more comments and look-backs on that post than most any other. Thank you for reading my posts. Wally
Excellent, sir– a truly fascinating tale! : )
Hi Mark, I am glad you enjoyed this post. Out of all the “John Bessac” posts I get the most comments on this the Pyrenees post. Thanks for reading.
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Thank you for your nomination.
What a fascinating post! What great photos! Love this~
Cindy, Of all the posts I have ever made I think this single post has received the most comment. And you know what? I have not idea why. Maybe it is the photos (as you have pointed out) or possibly it is the allusion to the Roman Empire and the impact they had on this world. I hope you are enjoying the European tour your are taking. Sometimes the tours fly by too fast. May your days be slow and enjoyable.
Let us hope that our US has as much a positive impact on this world as the Roman Empire did. Enjoy your time abroad. Wally
The picture of the buildings at the base of the rocks — during the eighty mile walk– those are like the rocks I just saw in the Black Hills. Did you ever make those sandcastles where you bloop the wet sand in trickles to form the pinnacles of the castle? It makes me think of that . There is some sandstone in the Black Hills but it is mainly granite I believe. I told you before you make me want to be a geologist.
I wish I could write down all the places my mind goes. I admire you for that.
Thanks Virginia. It is nice to know that what I write takes people to other places. No, I never made sand castles. The closest I ever came was when I was a kid on Jones Beach (NYC) and some wise-guy kid dumped a handful of baby sand crabs down the back of my swim trunks. You never saw a kid take of his swim trunks so fast (and without care who was watching). Take care. Wally
Oh, I see I picked out one from the past. I thought some parts were familiar. It a crus lily was the comment about Toulouse that made me remember. I suppose I could just pay attention to the dates.
Hi Virginia, If you enjoyed reading it again that is all that matters. Wally.
“was actually.”
Got it!
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Yes? You called?
Fine writing Wally. Thank you!
No Gary, my thanks is to you for taking the time to send the complement. I don’t know what it is about this part of John Bessac’s story that people enjoy. I get more “LIKES” on this crossing of the Pyrenees than on any other part. Several of John’s descendants have contacted me looking for more information about him. That also pleases me; that I can add to their ancestor’s history. Thanks again for visiting.
Wally, What a wonderful story, makes me kinda feel like i am walking along with John. This was a great post, thanks for taking me along. Also thank you for stopping my by blog several times recently and liking some of my posts. I do appreciate the time you spent with me and my works. Please take care, and have great 2014. — Bill
Bill, I enjoy visiting your posts. Thank you for reading mine. I get more comments on this post about the Pyrenees than another other one I have written. Now if I could only maintain that result with my other posts it would be great.
Take care and a prosperous 2014 to you also.
Wally
You have so vividly narrated his adventurous travelling that I could visualise all the followed routes and his experiences.The inserted photos and the map strongly supported the narration and the detailed accounts !!!
I did enjoy it,Wally.You are a talented storyteller !!!
Doda
Why thank you very much for your nice complements. You have no idea how much it means to me to know that I took someone on a mental journey. I hope I can keep it up forever – – – but alas – – – every once in a while I have to stop and spend a month reading or writing things other than the blog. I will be ready to take a break in the early spring. But there is plenty to read here and in my other blogs (which are a little strange at times).
Thanks again for your kind complements and for reading my posts.
My pleasure Wally ! Definitely I’ll visit your blog and read some more of your gripping stories and especially the odd ones which oftentimes are more stimulating.
Stay well and have a nice and creative Sunday !
Doda
I would like to find more to read WW II intrigue across Pyrenees.
That is a good subject Carl. I have never read anything about WWII and the Pyrenees. I hope you find something.